Time for reflection
I am glad I did the trip. Some have described it as a great achievement. It wasn't. It was just a journey, a pilgrimage through the land of my birth and upbringing. Some of it was hard work. A lot of it was interesting - a different way of seeing this land. There were some quirky little things that you see on a bike going slowly that you might easily miss looking out the window of a car. It is very satisfying knowing I went to those places, met the people I met, using the simple technology of a 21 speed steel-framed bike.
Among my heroes is the gentleman from Oamaru who did the same ride a month earlier on a home-built penny farthing bike. Or the family from Switzerland I met in Invercargill who did a similar ride with 2 children under 5 and a 3 room tent. Or the couple I met from Germany setting off from Bluff walking the length of the South Island.
I am extremely grateful to the wonderful people who hosted me on my journey. They were so welcoming and friendly. Thank you.
I have no guilt feelings at all about the trains I caught. There were good reasons for choosing those options. My Scottish friend John takes great delight in reminding me that I didn't ride the whole distance He does it regularly. In the same breath he reminds me of the bad grammar and spelling in this blog that results from using my Android phone to enter the data. While predictive text is useful, it does have its drawbacks. I am now going back over the posts and correcting the errors.
I am very grateful to the Board and Management of Melville High School for granting me the time off to do my trek. It has not been easy for them to deal with the disruption and I am sorry that my time away has had that effect on the students and staff. Thank you for your forbearance.
It is a fabulous country we have been gifted with.
Saturday 7 April 2012
1 April Kaitaia, then home for good
The trip back home was achieved but not without incident. The woman who runs Waitiki Landing complex offered me a ride on a truck going through to Kaitaia. I had intended to ride down the beach and one day i will go back and do that. But the offer of a ride was one too good to refuse. I was really looking forward to being home again.
Once I got to Kaitaia I tried to get my flight changed because I was there 3 days earlier than planned. But it was going to cost a huge amount extra to change the flight. The dilemma then was to catch a bus or wait the three days and fly back.
I tried to find some cheap accomodation. Ahipara was the nearest camp ground but it was 7kms out on the coast. The first backpackers was closed - locked up and no signs of opening. Along with the pub it was attached to. The second was a bit further away and was very welcoming although there were strange vibes about the place from the beginning. A two story wooden building, pool table and seemed OK,but a bit dirty and unkempt. Strangely the manager wasn't in a hurry to take my money which struck me as a bit odd, but proved to be very fortuitous.
I went and got some supplies and came back to my room. In the middle of the afternoon I heard voices raised, shouting, swearing. I also heard someone squeezing the hooter on my bike which didn't please me at all - wasn't just once.
I rapidly came to the conclusion that I didn't want to stay there. So I packed up my gear, returned the key to my room and left. The argument between the manager and a guest was about alcohol. Apparently there was a ban on drinking there- a bit strange because there was no sign up. Also there were a couple of large bags of empty beer bottles in a shed by the back door. So I walked up the main street heading towards the bus stop I would need to be at early the next morning. Being so close enabled me to strip the bike and bag up the contents in the comfort of the motel. It all worked out well in the end. A bit more expensive, but a good decision.
Once I got to Kaitaia I tried to get my flight changed because I was there 3 days earlier than planned. But it was going to cost a huge amount extra to change the flight. The dilemma then was to catch a bus or wait the three days and fly back.
I tried to find some cheap accomodation. Ahipara was the nearest camp ground but it was 7kms out on the coast. The first backpackers was closed - locked up and no signs of opening. Along with the pub it was attached to. The second was a bit further away and was very welcoming although there were strange vibes about the place from the beginning. A two story wooden building, pool table and seemed OK,but a bit dirty and unkempt. Strangely the manager wasn't in a hurry to take my money which struck me as a bit odd, but proved to be very fortuitous.
I went and got some supplies and came back to my room. In the middle of the afternoon I heard voices raised, shouting, swearing. I also heard someone squeezing the hooter on my bike which didn't please me at all - wasn't just once.
I rapidly came to the conclusion that I didn't want to stay there. So I packed up my gear, returned the key to my room and left. The argument between the manager and a guest was about alcohol. Apparently there was a ban on drinking there- a bit strange because there was no sign up. Also there were a couple of large bags of empty beer bottles in a shed by the back door. So I walked up the main street heading towards the bus stop I would need to be at early the next morning. Being so close enabled me to strip the bike and bag up the contents in the comfort of the motel. It all worked out well in the end. A bit more expensive, but a good decision.
Sunday 1 April 2012
30 Mar Made it !!
Friday
Today I rode from Houhoura Camping ground through to Waitiki Landing which is the last shop, cafe, camp ground, and petrol before the Cape. When I stopped at Te Kao for a coffee, a gentleman approached me and suggested I should overnight at Waitiki, and go to Cape Reinga the next day. His reasoning was that there are a number of very steep hills on the way. At Waitiki I asked a local how bad the hills were and he downplayed them as being being not too bad.
I booked in at the backpacker's lodge at Waitiki ($25 - so not too bad) and began to read the paper.
A group of UK riders in Air New Zealand tops pulled in for a lunch and said they would be doing the Cape that afternoon. How bad could it be - its only 21 kms. So I decided to take all my panniers off and ride the 21kms and return the same afternoon. The alternative was to keep the gear on and camp in the DoC campground for the night and head south agian the next morning. Not a prospect I looked forward to.
Well, the gentleman at Te Kao was correct - there are lots of hills in the 21kms. But there was a strong tail wind helping me along. And it didn't take me too long to reach the cape. The British cyclists turned up just as I was leaving to head back to Waitiki.
It was all a bit of an anti-climax. After all those days on the road I expected something a bit more welcoming. Its all very static and windswept. Brass bands and fireworks would have been nicebut not realistic.
I also hoped for some cell phone access to tell someone else (like Kay for instance) that I had made it.
The last powerpole is at the start of the Te Paki Rd 17 kms away. So there's no power anywhere near the cape.
The Ride back...
What was a strong tailwind became a strong headwind heading back. There are a couple of long hill climbs on the way back and for a lot of that, I walked uphill. At Te Paki I started putting my thumb out for a lift from whoever might chance to come along and take pity on a geriatric cyclist. A couple of British students from Cambridge (UK) did just that and took me over the hill back to Waitiki. Not a long distance but would have been quite a sizable climb.
I ordered a large seafood platter and a bottle of bubbly to celebrate.
Today I rode from Houhoura Camping ground through to Waitiki Landing which is the last shop, cafe, camp ground, and petrol before the Cape. When I stopped at Te Kao for a coffee, a gentleman approached me and suggested I should overnight at Waitiki, and go to Cape Reinga the next day. His reasoning was that there are a number of very steep hills on the way. At Waitiki I asked a local how bad the hills were and he downplayed them as being being not too bad.
I booked in at the backpacker's lodge at Waitiki ($25 - so not too bad) and began to read the paper.
A group of UK riders in Air New Zealand tops pulled in for a lunch and said they would be doing the Cape that afternoon. How bad could it be - its only 21 kms. So I decided to take all my panniers off and ride the 21kms and return the same afternoon. The alternative was to keep the gear on and camp in the DoC campground for the night and head south agian the next morning. Not a prospect I looked forward to.
Well, the gentleman at Te Kao was correct - there are lots of hills in the 21kms. But there was a strong tail wind helping me along. And it didn't take me too long to reach the cape. The British cyclists turned up just as I was leaving to head back to Waitiki.
It was all a bit of an anti-climax. After all those days on the road I expected something a bit more welcoming. Its all very static and windswept. Brass bands and fireworks would have been nicebut not realistic.
I also hoped for some cell phone access to tell someone else (like Kay for instance) that I had made it.
The last powerpole is at the start of the Te Paki Rd 17 kms away. So there's no power anywhere near the cape.
The Ride back...
What was a strong tailwind became a strong headwind heading back. There are a couple of long hill climbs on the way back and for a lot of that, I walked uphill. At Te Paki I started putting my thumb out for a lift from whoever might chance to come along and take pity on a geriatric cyclist. A couple of British students from Cambridge (UK) did just that and took me over the hill back to Waitiki. Not a long distance but would have been quite a sizable climb.
I ordered a large seafood platter and a bottle of bubbly to celebrate.
Thursday 29 March 2012
29 Mar Pukenui (Houhora)
Houhoura- halfway up
I left Hihi Camp very early because I knew I had a long day ahead. The original plan had been to go to Awanui and then down to Kaitaia and then head up the peninsula the next day. The manager of the camp suggested this was a silly idea and I agreed. The revised plan was to head up to Pukenui from Awanui, which made it a 70km day - quite long in the context of the trip.
There were some quite steep hills between Hihi and Awanui including some roadworks. The sign before Hihi said it was the last campground for miles which is the reason I had chosen to go there. I realise now I could have gone on to Mangonui which has lots of shops and a pub with accomadation so I would have been Ok if I had gone on.
Got to Awanui about 1 and had a coffee and 2 sandwiches at the cafe on the corner. Then headed up the road north. Lots of logging trucks use the road as well as other normal traffic. And the road is quite narrow in places so I was a bit concerned, especially around blind corners.
Just south of Pukenui is the turn-off to the Houhoura Holiday Park which looked really nice from the advertising. I dithered about whether to carry on to Pukenui or detour to Houhoura. Lethagy and pretty pictures won the day and I rode down 2 kms into Houhora to the backpackers.
I would love to go back and stay there for 3 or 4 days to explore with a boat, because it was lovely .Unfortunately there is no shop and so I had to ration my my depleted food stocks. To the rescue came a couple from Wellington. They are retired and twice a year tow their runabout up to Northland to go fishing for 3 or 4 weeks. They bring their small chest freezer and fill it full of fish before heading back south to Wellington. They generously offered me a fillet of snapper to supplement my small rations, without even knowing how low I was getting in food.
It was enjoyable meeting up with them as they live in Kingston in Wellington where I used to teach.
I left Hihi Camp very early because I knew I had a long day ahead. The original plan had been to go to Awanui and then down to Kaitaia and then head up the peninsula the next day. The manager of the camp suggested this was a silly idea and I agreed. The revised plan was to head up to Pukenui from Awanui, which made it a 70km day - quite long in the context of the trip.
There were some quite steep hills between Hihi and Awanui including some roadworks. The sign before Hihi said it was the last campground for miles which is the reason I had chosen to go there. I realise now I could have gone on to Mangonui which has lots of shops and a pub with accomadation so I would have been Ok if I had gone on.
Got to Awanui about 1 and had a coffee and 2 sandwiches at the cafe on the corner. Then headed up the road north. Lots of logging trucks use the road as well as other normal traffic. And the road is quite narrow in places so I was a bit concerned, especially around blind corners.
Just south of Pukenui is the turn-off to the Houhoura Holiday Park which looked really nice from the advertising. I dithered about whether to carry on to Pukenui or detour to Houhoura. Lethagy and pretty pictures won the day and I rode down 2 kms into Houhora to the backpackers.
I would love to go back and stay there for 3 or 4 days to explore with a boat, because it was lovely .Unfortunately there is no shop and so I had to ration my my depleted food stocks. To the rescue came a couple from Wellington. They are retired and twice a year tow their runabout up to Northland to go fishing for 3 or 4 weeks. They bring their small chest freezer and fill it full of fish before heading back south to Wellington. They generously offered me a fillet of snapper to supplement my small rations, without even knowing how low I was getting in food.
It was enjoyable meeting up with them as they live in Kingston in Wellington where I used to teach.
Tuesday 27 March 2012
27 Mar Kerikeri and the sun is out
A tale of 2 cities (villages really, but it sounds good)
I really enjoyed staying with Ted and Dorrie. It wasn't just that they looked after me so well. and kept plying me with food and drink. That helps of course. But they are both such nice and friendly people. And I also met up again with John, Kevin and Margie. I didn't see Penny unfortunately but it was good to see the others.
I left the farm at about 8.30 and headed for Towai for a coffee. Unfortunately both the pub and cafe were closed so I pushed on to Kawakawa where I stopped for my coffee.
As I was taking my cycling gear off a 'suit' approached me and asked me about my trip. He got really excited about me starting at 'The Bluff' and introduced me to 3 other 'suits'. I had assumed they where either estate agents or funeral directors.They wore name tags, but I didn't study them closely . One of them I found out was the local MP, so politics was involved somehow. I couldn't resist a little name dropping by mentioning cousin Johnathon,MP for New Plymouth. My hand got shaken twice as a result. Mayor Wayne Brown was around too so I assume they were all having coffee together. Who knows.
I couldn't help comparing the affluence and prosperity of Kawakawa with Moera. The former has very few,if any, empty shops.
As I biked past the AFFCO meatworks the hundred or so picketers responded well to the horn and bell that I rang as I rode passed. (I am a union member myself). The picketers were nearly all Maori. I don't understand all the issues but I don't trust Talleys. Then I ride through Moera itself . Lots of empty shops
, graffiti, windows boarded up. Almost nobody on the streets - certainly no 'suits'. The contrast was poignant.
I pushbiked through to Kerikeri and made a brief pilgrimage to St James church which have a couple of camino stain glass windows.It is clearly a much-loved building and I felt very peaceful there. Open unlocked and accessible to anyone.
Tomorrow I head north around the coast. The campground is by a small river, busy and lots of birds
Delightful.
Probably 2 days from Kaitaia - its going well.
Sunday 25 March 2012
25 Mar Back in the North
Whangarei
I thought the section into Whangarei would be quite straight forward. Much of it is flat and the road is mostly wide with a wide shoulder . I forgot about the traffic. I forgot about the lack of cafes and toilet stops. I also forgot that when we lived in Whangarei years ago the trip from Waipu always seemed to take forever.
There was a nasty little head wind too which makes the biking so much harder. The ride into Waipu was quite pleasant but the next bit was a trial.It was quite a relief to bike over the brow of the hill.into Whangarei and see our old houseand the familiar supermarket and shopping centre in Otaika Rd.. I had a cup of tea at the information centre and then made my way to the camp ground just down the road. In retrospect a cabin at 3 times the cost might have been a better option than the tent. In the afternoon the light rain set in and continued all night.. The tent once again handled it well but it was not a pleasant night and I didn't sleep well.
I made the traditional trip to Arthur's Emporium in the central city and bought some hooks to act as struts to hold up the front panier. It seemed to work OK but it is not a permanent solution.
I thought the section into Whangarei would be quite straight forward. Much of it is flat and the road is mostly wide with a wide shoulder . I forgot about the traffic. I forgot about the lack of cafes and toilet stops. I also forgot that when we lived in Whangarei years ago the trip from Waipu always seemed to take forever.
There was a nasty little head wind too which makes the biking so much harder. The ride into Waipu was quite pleasant but the next bit was a trial.It was quite a relief to bike over the brow of the hill.into Whangarei and see our old houseand the familiar supermarket and shopping centre in Otaika Rd.. I had a cup of tea at the information centre and then made my way to the camp ground just down the road. In retrospect a cabin at 3 times the cost might have been a better option than the tent. In the afternoon the light rain set in and continued all night.. The tent once again handled it well but it was not a pleasant night and I didn't sleep well.
I made the traditional trip to Arthur's Emporium in the central city and bought some hooks to act as struts to hold up the front panier. It seemed to work OK but it is not a permanent solution.
20 Mar A train to Auckland maybe
My sojourn in Hamilton had to come to an end eventually. The awful weather began to abate so I checked out rail trips to Auckland so as to avoid the strong and unexpected wind gusts that combined with the heavy traffic to make cycling a real hazard. The train that day had room for me but no room for my bike. So I posted off my last bit of moderation (hopefully forever) and waited for further improvement in the weather tomorrow .
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