Saturday 7 April 2012

7 April A week later

Time for reflection
I am glad I did the trip.  Some have described it as a great achievement.  It wasn't.  It was just a journey, a pilgrimage through the land of my birth and upbringing.  Some of it was hard work.  A lot of it was interesting - a different way of seeing this land.  There were some quirky little things that you see on a bike going slowly that you might easily miss looking out the window of a car. It is very satisfying knowing I went to those places, met the people I met, using the simple technology of a 21 speed steel-framed bike.

 Among my heroes is the gentleman from Oamaru who did the same ride a month earlier on a home-built penny farthing bike.  Or the family from Switzerland I met in Invercargill who did a similar ride with 2 children under 5 and a 3 room tent. Or the couple I met from Germany setting off from Bluff walking the length of the South Island.

I am extremely grateful to the wonderful people who hosted me on my journey.  They were so welcoming and friendly.  Thank you.

I have no guilt feelings at all about the trains I caught. There were good reasons for choosing those options. My Scottish friend John takes great delight in reminding me that I didn't ride the whole distance  He does it regularly.  In the same breath he reminds me of the bad grammar and spelling in this blog that results from using my Android phone to enter the data.  While predictive text is useful, it does have its drawbacks.  I am now going back over the posts and correcting the errors.

I am very grateful to the Board and Management of Melville High School for granting me the time off to do my trek. It has not been easy for them to deal with the disruption and I am sorry that my time away has had that effect on the students and staff. Thank you for your forbearance.



It is a fabulous country we have been gifted with.

1 April Kaitaia, then home for good

The trip back home was achieved but not without incident.  The woman who runs Waitiki Landing complex offered me a ride on a truck going through to Kaitaia.  I had intended to ride down the beach and one day i will go back and do that.  But the offer of a ride was one too good to refuse.  I was really looking forward to being home again.
Once I got to Kaitaia I tried to get my flight changed because I was there 3 days earlier than planned.  But it was going to cost a huge amount extra to change the flight.  The dilemma then was to catch a bus or wait the three days and fly back.
I tried to find some cheap accomodation.  Ahipara was the nearest camp ground but it was 7kms out on the coast.  The first backpackers was closed - locked up and no signs of opening.  Along with the pub it was attached to.   The second was a bit further away and was very welcoming although there were strange vibes about the place from the beginning.  A two story wooden building, pool table and seemed OK,but a bit dirty and unkempt.  Strangely the manager wasn't in a hurry to take my money which struck me as a bit odd, but proved to be very fortuitous.

I went and got some supplies and came back to my room.  In the middle of the afternoon I heard voices raised, shouting, swearing.  I also heard someone squeezing the hooter on my bike which didn't please me at all - wasn't just once.

I rapidly came to the conclusion that I didn't want to stay there.  So I packed up my gear, returned the key to my room and left.  The argument between the manager and a guest was about alcohol.  Apparently  there was a ban on drinking there- a bit strange because there was no sign up.  Also there were a couple of large bags of empty beer bottles in a shed by the back door. So I walked up the main street heading towards the bus stop I would need to be at early the next morning.  Being so close enabled me to strip the bike and bag up the contents in the comfort of the motel. It all worked out well in the end.  A bit more expensive, but a good decision.



Sunday 1 April 2012

30 Mar Made it !!

Friday
Today I rode from Houhoura Camping ground through to Waitiki Landing which is the last shop, cafe, camp ground, and petrol before the Cape. When I stopped at Te Kao for a coffee, a gentleman approached me and suggested I should overnight at Waitiki, and go to Cape Reinga the next day.  His reasoning was that there are a number of very steep hills on the way.  At Waitiki I asked a local how bad the hills were and he downplayed them as being being not too bad.
I booked in at the backpacker's lodge at Waitiki ($25 - so not too bad) and began to read the paper.
A group of UK riders in Air New Zealand tops pulled in for a lunch and said they would be doing the Cape that afternoon. How bad could it be - its only 21 kms.  So I decided to take all my panniers off and ride the 21kms and return the same afternoon.  The alternative was to keep the gear on and camp in the DoC  campground for the night and head south agian the next morning. Not a prospect I looked forward to.

Well, the gentleman at Te Kao was correct - there are lots of hills in the 21kms.   But there was a strong tail wind helping me along.   And it didn't take me too long to reach the cape.  The British cyclists turned up just as I was leaving to head back to Waitiki.

It was all a bit of an anti-climax.  After all those days on the road I expected something a bit more welcoming.  Its all very static and windswept.  Brass bands and fireworks would have been nicebut not realistic.

I also hoped for some cell phone access to tell someone else (like Kay for instance) that I had made it.
The last powerpole is at the start of the Te Paki Rd 17 kms away.  So there's no power anywhere near the cape.

The Ride back...
What was a strong tailwind became a strong headwind heading back.  There are a couple of long hill climbs on the way back and for a lot of that, I walked uphill.  At Te Paki I started putting my thumb out for a lift from whoever might chance to come along and take pity on a geriatric cyclist.  A couple of British students from Cambridge (UK) did just that and took me over the hill back to Waitiki.  Not a long distance but would have been quite a sizable climb.

I ordered a large seafood platter and a bottle of bubbly to celebrate.








Thursday 29 March 2012

29 Mar Pukenui (Houhora)

 Houhoura- halfway up
I left Hihi Camp very early because I knew I had a long day ahead.  The original plan had been to go to Awanui and then down to Kaitaia and then head up the peninsula the next day.  The manager of the camp suggested this was a silly idea and I agreed.  The revised plan was to head up to Pukenui from Awanui, which made it a 70km day - quite long in the context of the trip.

There were some quite steep hills between Hihi and Awanui including some roadworks.  The sign before Hihi said it was the last campground for miles which is the reason I had chosen to go there.  I realise now I could have gone on to Mangonui which has lots of shops and a pub with accomadation so I would have been Ok if I had gone on.

Got to Awanui about 1 and had a coffee  and 2 sandwiches at the cafe on the corner.  Then headed up the road north.  Lots of logging trucks use the road as well as other normal traffic.  And the road is quite narrow in places so I was a bit concerned, especially around blind corners.

Just south of Pukenui is the turn-off to the Houhoura Holiday Park which looked really nice from the advertising. I dithered about whether to carry on to Pukenui or detour to Houhoura.  Lethagy and pretty pictures won the day and I rode down 2 kms  into Houhora to the backpackers.

I would love to go back and stay there for 3 or 4 days to explore with a boat, because it was lovely .Unfortunately there is no shop and so I had to ration my my depleted food stocks.  To the rescue came a couple from Wellington.  They are retired and twice a year tow their runabout up to Northland to go fishing for 3 or 4 weeks.  They bring their small chest freezer and fill it full of fish before heading back south to Wellington. They generously offered me a fillet of snapper to supplement my small rations, without even knowing how low I was getting in food.

It was enjoyable meeting up with them as they live in Kingston in Wellington where I used to teach.






Tuesday 27 March 2012

27 Mar Kerikeri and the sun is out


A tale of 2 cities (villages really, but it sounds good)
I really enjoyed staying with Ted and Dorrie.  It wasn't just that they looked after me so well. and kept plying me with food and drink. That helps of course. But they are both such nice and friendly people. And I also met up again with  John, Kevin and Margie. I didn't see Penny unfortunately but it was good to see the others.
I left the farm at about 8.30 and headed for Towai for a coffee.   Unfortunately both the pub and cafe were closed so I pushed on to Kawakawa where I stopped for my coffee.
As I was taking my cycling gear off a 'suit' approached me and asked me about my trip.   He got really excited about me starting at 'The Bluff' and introduced me to 3 other 'suits'. I had assumed they where either estate agents or funeral directors.They wore name tags, but I didn't study them closely . One of them I found out was the local MP, so politics was involved somehow. I couldn't resist a little name dropping by mentioning cousin Johnathon,MP for New Plymouth.  My hand got shaken twice as a result. Mayor Wayne Brown was around too so I assume they were all having coffee together. Who knows.
I couldn't help comparing the affluence and prosperity of Kawakawa with Moera. The former has very few,if any, empty shops.
As I biked past the AFFCO meatworks the hundred or so picketers responded well to the horn and bell that I rang as I rode passed. (I am a union member myself).   The picketers were nearly all Maori. I don't understand all the issues but I don't trust Talleys. Then I ride through Moera itself .  Lots of empty shops
, graffiti, windows boarded up. Almost nobody on the streets - certainly no 'suits'. The contrast was poignant. 
I pushbiked through to Kerikeri and made a brief pilgrimage to St James church which have a couple of camino stain glass windows.It is clearly a much-loved building and I felt very peaceful there. Open unlocked and accessible to anyone.
Tomorrow I head north around the coast.  The campground is by a small river, busy and lots of birds
Delightful.
Probably 2 days from Kaitaia - its going well.

Sunday 25 March 2012

25 Mar Back in the North

Whangarei
I thought the section into Whangarei would be quite straight forward. Much of it is flat and the road is mostly wide with a wide shoulder .  I forgot about the traffic. I forgot about the lack of cafes and toilet stops. I also forgot that when we lived in Whangarei years ago the trip from Waipu always seemed to take forever.  
  There was a nasty little head wind too which makes the biking so much harder.  The ride into Waipu was quite pleasant but the next bit was a trial.It was quite a relief to bike over the brow of the hill.into Whangarei and see our old houseand the familiar supermarket and shopping centre in Otaika Rd..  I had a cup of tea at the information centre and then made my way to the camp ground just down the road.  In retrospect a cabin at 3 times the cost might have been a better option than the tent.  In the afternoon the light rain set in and continued all night..   The tent once again handled it well but it was not a pleasant night and I didn't sleep well.

I made the traditional trip to Arthur's Emporium in the central city and bought some hooks to act as struts to hold up the front panier.  It seemed to work OK but it is not a permanent solution.

20 Mar A train to Auckland maybe

My sojourn in Hamilton had to come to an end eventually. The awful weather began to abate so I checked out rail trips to Auckland so as to avoid the strong and unexpected wind gusts that combined with the heavy traffic to make cycling a real hazard. The train that day had room for me but no room for my bike.  So I posted off my last bit of moderation (hopefully forever) and waited for further improvement in the weather tomorrow .

Saturday 24 March 2012

24 Mar. Hello Northland Waipu

Waipu Cove
One of my dilemas of this trip is how to deal with the Bryndyrwyn hill . For those who haven't experienced this piece of road, it us a long street piece of State Highway 1 that connects Northland with the rest of New Zealand . The big heavy lorries grind their way up in the left hand lane of the many passing lanes while the cars in general. shoot up the right  lane to minimise the time on the road.
One plan was to head left to Dargaville but that would have added 2 days at least.   There's a gravel road that goes round the west side but I wasn't game to risk it on a bike.
In the end I decided on the eastern route through Mangawhai. It is a pretty route that also has its steep bits but for the most part there are no big trucks.
What helped me decide was lying in my pub bedroom metres away from SH 1 through my hours of insomnia listening to the lorries grind their way through Wellsford. Decision made - easy.
Waipu Cover campground is right by the Bream Bay surf beach
  I would love bring a land yacht on a low ride with strong steady on-shore wind.  Heaven.  Nice to be beside the sea again.  And back in Northland

Thursday 22 March 2012

22nd Mar Helensville to the west

Helensville in the rain
I left my sister's house at 8.30 and decided tofollow her suggestion of riding the cycle trail that parallels the NW motorway.   Its a great idea and I wish more councils would follow suit (Dunedin for instance)  It was a leaden sky with occasional fine misty. rain. I got to Helensville just after 1 and wanted to press on.  The info office showed a backpackers for $30 but it was quite a lot more. There was no real alternative. I could have gone back to the hotpools close by but didn't fancy riding back 20 minutes after a hot swim so I had a spa instead. I slept quite well but tomorrow I face lots of up/down bits.  The forecast is fot fine weather (unusually).

Tuesday 20 March 2012

19 Mar Weather !!!!

Just to allay any fears, I have decided to stay put in Hamilton until the extreme weather eases.  There is no point in taking the risk of wind gusts putting life and/or limbs in danger. I am very grateful to be at home - safe and warm in Hamilton.  And really enjoying being with Kay again.
Here I will stay until it is safe.

Monday 19 March 2012

15 Mar Hamilton (on the way through)

15 Mar   Hamilton and home
I was familiar with the road to Honikiwi to Hamilton and left early to avoid heavy traffic.
I was hoping to pop in to Melville High School to catch up with my friends at morning tea.  I was pleased that the country is that rolling Waikato farmland which made the riding fairly easy and I made good time into Pirongia for that coffee and muffin. It was fascinating to watch a helicopter spraying areas of farmland with some chemical.  I was hoping that I was  not going to be included in the spray drift but I haven't shown any symptoms of it yet.

I worked hard to get to the outskirts of Hamilton in good time and rolled up the drive at Melville High School 10 minutes into interval.  My colleagues were mostly supportive and but some made suggestions of further activities that I might want to (some physically impossible) that was good-hearted banter.   It was good to be back and see them again.  The students I saw were also supportive and that was nice.
 After morning tea I headed home and caught up on emails, letters, bills and washing.
It was good to be home again.

15 Mar Freedom Camping

15 Mar     Piopio

It was a chilly morning in Mokau and with a steep range of hills it was quite a long time for the sun to get up and warm up the area. It was headed for a fine autumn day with little or no wind.  I stocked up on some food at the local garage at Awakino.  I wasn't sure what was actually at Piopio although I did remember it as being quite a small village.

Once I left Awakino I was climbing up the Awakino Valley, it began gently enough with a reasonably wide road and a good shoulder.  There were a couple of serious slips along the way that are quite scary on a bike. Partly its a fear of rock falls, but also of dodging the rubble on road.  And when that rubble might go flying with cars and trucks going past at speed, the danger is real.  The narrowness of the road with the trucks that go flying past given that its a state highway that connects Taranaki with the King Country and the Waikato. I was a lone cyclist andI can see why fellow cyclists would avoid the route.  There are a couple steep hills that I walked up. And I was pleased when the sign for Piopio came into view.  I asked at the  local dairy and they pointed me to the free camping area and gave me a key to the toilet block.

I pitched tent, bought some further supplies and settled down for the night.

16 Mar A taste of the country life

14 Mar   Honikiwi
I awoke early after quite a good sleep.  It hadn't been too cold and the mattress stayed up. The campground was free but I left a donation.   It was 22k to Te Kuiti where I had a coffee (as usual) and a nibble or two.  There are a couple of steep hills just before Te Kuiti which I knew about. The first one I managed to bike up - albeit slowly but the 2nd I had to walk up.  It was quite narrow and several big trucks came up the hill and they can be scary as they thunder past.

Once I got through Te Kuiti, the road to Otorohanga was quite moderate with only one major hill.  I had a nice Pizza and cider for lunch and then headed for Honikiwi - rural area between Otorohanga and Kawhia.  There were a few hills to contend with a really steep just before my hosts' house whichwalked up.

The house is newly built and has some excellent design features including solar power and water heating.
My hosts arrived from Hamilton we caught up on family news over an excellent meal

Sunday 18 March 2012

New Plymouth we are here

12 Mar.   New Plymouth
Reading the weather forecast, I made the decision to head off in the morning to Urenui about 40 kms from New Plymouth. That at least would get me further on and just. a little bit closer to home.  Debbie suggested that we do a ride along the magnificent walkway created for people to bike/walk the waterfront. Once we came back from that. little trip she offered to drive me over Mt Messenger which us a daunting obstacle for a semi-geraitric cyclist carrying quitea lot of gear. I am bound to say the scheme appealed to the afore-mentioned geraitric. 
I enjoyed the walkway,as did. many others as  it was a public holiday for the province of Taranaki.


Thursday 15 March 2012

New Plymouth here we come

11 Mar
I had intended to stay 2 nights in Hawera as the forecast was pretty awful. The one last was not so bad so I decided to do an early morning dash  and try and make New Plymouth before the weather turned bad.   The mild cold I was developing was another reason for moving on. I had arranged with the bar staff at the hotel  to move my bike out of the secure area after closing time so I could make an early get-away.  It was a huge relief to find it in the lobby when I awoke at 5.30. By the time I got everything loaded up and crept out the main door it was 6.30 and still dark.  It took a little while to orient myself and begin heading north. I brought lightls for the bike and helmet for exactly this kind of situation and was pleased with how they worked.
The ride up to Stratford was really hard work.  A combination of uphill terrain, a slight northerly headwind, the early start and fatigue from the long ride the previous day all played a part. It was pretty gruelling going.

I talked with a real cyclist outside a cafe in Stratford who told me the downhill bit started  just after Midhurst. It wasn't just psycholgical, or the caffein affect. The light misty rain started at Stratford, the terrain was mostly downhill, and maybe the caffein kicked in as well. I started making good time. It certainly wasn't the custard square which was truly awful.
The rain continued until Inglewood and then went away.
I also saw  the first signpost for Hamilton - that brought a lift in spirits. I arrived at the Garretts tired but satisfied
. As always they welcomed me generously and it is good to see them again. My cold hasn't got any worse and it will be good to wait another day for better weather and health. Mt Messenger awaits.

14 Mar A taste of the country life

Honikiwi
I awoke early after quite. a good night's sleep
It hadn't been too cold and the mattress stayed up. The campground was free but I left
a donation.  It was 22km to Te Kuiti where I had a coffee and a nibble or two.  ThTere are a couple of steep hills just before Te Kuiti which I knew about - then another
the first one I biked up bu
t the second got quite narrow
so I pushed the bike up that one. It was a fairly easy ride in
to Otorahanga with only one major hill. I had a nice Pizza for lunch.  I got let down by my GPS trying to find. Homikiwi Road and biked a whole lot of extra distance as a result . But I am here and looking forward to Hamilton tomorrow. A sweet homecoming.

Saturday 10 March 2012

10 Mar Wanganui A hard day at the office 92kms

Although it was a cold night the new day dawned clear and bright.  I didn't sleep that well,  not helped by some locals using the isolation of the to do wheelies and burnouts on the road behind the camp.
The objective today wash to get to Hawera. 92 kms away - long haul.
I knew the road followed the coast closely so there would be a number of river valleys to negotiate. Going down is great of course.   Going up the other side is a hard slog.  There were a lot more than I realised.  But I an quite proud that I only walked the last very steep one just south of Hawera.
Heavy rain was forecast for the next two days so I had planned a two day stop here.  I booked in to a single room in a local hotel because the info. centre told me the cabins at the camping ground would be all taken. With. a slightly improved forecast tomorrow I am going to head north to New Plymouth as early as possible and hopefully beat as much of the rain as possible. Time will tell if I have made the right call.

Heading north from Wellington

7 Mar
I awoke early at Anna and Rob`s but spent a lot of time  sorting out the packing arrangement of my panniers. It us a lot easier doing this at a tent site because if you clear the site you know you have everything even if some things are in strange places. A cabin is usually OK but it pays to check under pillows and beds for stray items that can easily get left behind. I am pretty sure I left my soap at Anna's but its not a major loss. Wallets and mobiles are a different. story and I fortunately haven't bad a repeat of the missing wallet episode.  It is a major relief being back back in the North Island where a return home in an emergency is a single 6 or 7 hour bus trip home. Unlikel Temuka.
I packed up the bike at the top of Brooklyn and ride to the Railway Station. For $9.50 I thought it was worth avoiding the madness of the hilly and narrow roads out of Wellington by taking the train to Waikanae.  It is a pretty train ride once you get out along the coast and the  sea was dead calm. At Waikanae I put the front panniers back on the bike.  It was a beautiful day-the sun was shining. It felt like summer - finally.  It feel good to be back on the road and the bike wash going well

I craved a banana milk shake and a paua fritter for lunch. I should have gone for the gourmet fritter because the cheap one was all mush. This was in Otaki where the clothes shops. are. No room for going wild in the shops there.

The next major town is Levin with a choice of Foxton or Shannon next, dependending on the route. I chose to stay in Levin in a nice camp east of the town. It seemed like summer is finally here.

Heading west -a wild ride

9 Mar
I left Palmerston North at around 8.30. Margaret fed me breakfast and suggested a route out of town that would get me going in the right direction. Because most of the city is flat its hard to get a fix if there is a lot of cloud around.Its a problem I have always had in Palmerston North on the occasions I have driven there.  I used. the GPS to guide me to main road. heading west. I knew the wind would be strong and hoped and. prayed it would. be from the east still.
My prayers were answered - I have never had a ride like it. The wind blew me across the Rangitkei Plains - I barely had to pedal. I was maintaining 30km/hr+ for long periods of time. Had the wind been a westerly I would have really. struggled. I got to Whanganui early afternoon and decided on the camping ground by the sea rather than the more expensive one in the centre of town. The strong wind didn't die down until after dark. I had a long. discussion with a Canadian woman and her adult son about things to see and do in New Zealand. Which us partly why this blog entry us a day late.  I talked so long I bad to go to bed in the dark.

Thursday 8 March 2012

Palmerston North

8 Mar Palmerston North
It was too good to be true.  Summer for a day and it was back to cold and cloud.  I knew I had a 50km ride so I made some changes to the bike and left Levin quite late. I stopped at Shannon for an early lunch. - coffee. and pita and salad wrap.  The 30 km ride into 'Palmy ' was assisted by a strong SE wind but it swirled around and was quite unpleasant. It never actually rained but the threat was always there.   My GPS got me very successfully to my those for the night - fellow Camino enthusiast and  teacher trained in Hamilton at the same time I was. Tomorrow I head west to the coast - weather permitting.

Tuesday 6 March 2012

13 Mar. Freedom camping

  Piopio
It was quite chilly in the morning at Mokau. Although it was headed for a pleasant autumn day with little or no wind. I stocked up on some food items at Awakino Garage in case I couldn't find. somewhere to sleep at night. I then began the climb up the Awakino Valley. It began gently enough with quite a wide shoulder and nothing too strenuous.  There are a couple of serious slips where there is a significant amount of rubble on or near the road which are quite scary.  There are also narrow sections of road where the big trucks have little room to get past the odd cyclist. I can see why cyclists might avoid the route because of safety.  At the top of the valley close to Piopio there are 2 really steep climbs that I walked up. I arrived there and asked at the dairy about camping and they told me that camping there was free. No showers - just a toilet.  So I pitched my tent, bought some supplies, lit up the cooker, had some dinner and when to bed.

Monday 5 March 2012

Goose Bay Kaikoura

4 Mar  Goose Bay
I packed up my gear, loaded up the bike and left early.  There was rain but it was very light drizzle. I had plenty of layers on and so the light rain didn't bother me.  The strong southerly, though cold, was my friend.  I achieved good speeds first to Cheviot for a full English breakfast and later Parnassus for a cup of tea. There the sign said 56km to Kaikoura - a fiddle I thought. The range of hills south of Kaikoura were a lot steeper and longer than I remember them.Memories of the Gillespie Pass came flooding back.  Walk 10 metres, recover for 10 minutes.Slow and painful progress.  Then I saw the ocean and the bad memories faded just a little. I stopped at the Goose Bay camp and took yet another cabin. Had fish and chips back a couple of bays - just got in before they closed for the day.  The plan tomorrow is to catch a train to Picton and thus avoid the narrow windy coastal road. And there is little accomodation on that route.  It is quite exciting to think I could be back in the North Island tomorrow night. It was passing comment from the young woman who booked me in to this camping ground about there being a train.  I will need to be up early enough in the morning morn meet it in time.

Sunday 4 March 2012

Greta valley day 1

2nd mar
I was very grateful to Douglas and Vivienne who hostess me last night.  It was organised very much at the last minute partly through the Sellars who had been their  guests for the last couple of weeks as David's mother was dying. It was really good to see them again an d they very good to me.
Today was a hard day.  There was a sea breeze head wind which marks the cycling hard work.  I was never going to achieve the tail wind heights of yesterday.  It was relief to see the Greta Valley signs showing accomodation  because I was all in and it was a real mental struggle to keep going. I have made myself at home with a shower but there is no-one in the office yet to tell me what the costs are.  Bad weather is on the way so a cabin is the goal so long as the price is ok.   Had a shower, washed some clothes and will cook dinner soon. 

Greta valley day 2

3 Mar
Today the weather bomb hit the North Island. I lay in my cabin and it became obvious to me that I had 2 choices.  Wait for a break in the weather and try and make it to Cheviot more or less dry a distance of 33km.  That would leave 56km to get to Kaikoura the following day. The 2nd choice was to stay put in Greta Valley and try to do 100 plus kms with a southerly to push me along. I chose the latter and had a very lazy day listening to 'Feet of Clay'. There isn't much to Greta Valley village.  One can exhaust the social possibilities very quickly.  I bought a 'Press', read it and did the puzzles.  But at least I was dry and warm and comfortable.

Thursday 1 March 2012

Made it to Christchurch

! Mar
Last night was a dreadful but I shouldn't have been surprised because it had been forecast. If I had been sensible I would have opted for a cabin and the night might have been easier.  However it gave the tent the weather test it hadn't had until now. It passed with near flying colours.  I was lucky I had pitched the tent with the 'door' facing north so that the southerly that blew up had the opening on the leeward side. Trips to the loo were relatively painless.
The tent passed because
a) it didn't blow over
b) it didn't leak
Sure things became damp-it happens with heavy rain.  But the tent did its job.
I wasn't in a hurry to get on the road this morning.  It was cold and gray with a strong southerly blowing.  When I mentioned I was going through to Christchurch, James offered to join me on the road for some company. It would have been churlish and rude to say no, so I didn't. James is a welsh stonemason who does a lot of travelling and cycling in particular.  He doesn't have as much because he doesn't have a tent, and bedding and things. He stays in backpackers so his budget is different as well.
I don't regret taking most of what I have and it hasn't slowed me down too much. I kept up with Tom and James most of the time and with the southerly pushing us along we kept a good pace. I drifted back a bit when the grade went up as age and weight took their toll.  After 90 minutes we finally found a coffee and had break.  It was enjoyable riding and I was pleased he had joined me.  The only issue is the width of the shoulder gets a bit narrow with the big trucks that charge through. I rode the rest solo and still kept a good pace.   I had a wee bit of trouble finding Idris St. When I arrived there was boomed here so I sat on my stool and typed up my blog.   The goal tomorrow is Cheviot.

Wednesday 29 February 2012

Ashburton 29th Feb

29 Feb
My watch is confused telling me it is March already and therefore my mother's birthday. I left the little camping ground near Geraldine thinking I would follow my new friend's advice and stay off the main roads. I thought I could trust my GPS to get me to the right place,  but it became clear that I could easily end up in going around in circles-not so bad in a car. Better the tried and true (but noisy) highway.  I managed the long bridges OK timing my run for minimum disruption to traffic.  Rain was forecast for tomorrow so thought about moving on to Christchurch but didn't have the energy.  The wind was picking up from the north so I picked the southern campground by the domain. The ducks are very noisy at the so I am hoping they will fall asleep eventually. Had a craving for KFC so indulged. Left me full all afternoon.  I am looking forward to catching up with the Bridges after a timely email from Alison S.
I now have a new scheme where I buy the local paper, read it, do the puzzles(one of my few obsessions  and then lay the paper onthe floor of the tent.  This gives insulation as well as protecting Tom's wonderful inflatable mattress from sharp objects.  Thanks Tom.
I am not looking forward to Christchurch - so much misery and loss.   And also on the positive side,  so much resilience. I think only 1 night.  I am pleased I came but I miss Kay and normal life in Hamilton. I am also looking to seeing some old friends in Wellington.

Tuesday 28 February 2012

27th Feb Timaru

27 Feb
Today I rode from  Oamaru to Timaru - a distance of about 80km.  I thought it should not be too much of a. challenge.  This is the Canterbury Plains after all - flat and straight roads.   The weather was fine and the temperature was cool.  What I hadn't counted on was the steady sea breeze that  was almost head on.  It made riding a significant challenge. Without the breeze I could have averaged 17km/hr but the breeze reduced it to 12.  To complete the challenge was the series of hills and valleys that lead in to the city of Timaru.  It was a relief to see the signpost for the camping ground. The manager is a cyclist and we talked much about riding and routes north.  He suggested staying off the main roads away from the big trucks. His suggestion has merit although today the big trucks provided some slight relief from the incessant head wind.

Geraldene 28 Feb

28 Feb
The day dawned cold and misty with a few spots of rain. My friendly Dutchman neighbour in the tentsite along from me was ever helpful with suggestions about routes and placed to visit.  My first task was to get my gears sorted.  I rode in to Timaru (I hadn't realised what a gully town/city it really was until I had to bike round it and through it) and found a bike shop open.  They fixed the problem quickly and for free - the bell I put on was imterfering with gears. It didn't before but must have moved.  Its a lot better now. So I packed up and made to set off.  Had another long talk with camp manager about bikes and routes so it was 11.30 before I was on my way.  Lots of hills on the way out. But once out of town, the road was flat,  the strongish southerly was behind me and I made good time to Temuka where I stopped to buy bananas. I mislaid my wallet there and it was a scary moment.  If I lost it for good or it got stolen it would be very tricky.  I am working on a contingency plan. I decided to the country road thing and stopped at a country campground called The Farmyard - delightful. The only problem is the nearest beer for sale is 5km by pushbike- probably a good thing in the long run.

Monday 27 February 2012

Palmerston 25th

25 th Feb  After two days swanning around Dunedin, being spoilt by my hosts, it was time to hit the road again. I had hoped to start putting some serious kms on the clock. I hadn't reckon ed the steepness of the Dunedin hills. My first mistake was to think that an alternative route for the motorway for cyclists would be well signposted. It is both illegal and foolish to ride a bike on the motorway.  Eventually I found the sign.  What I should have done was caught the excursion train to Palmerston. Cost a bit but would have saved hours pushing a heavy bike up several steep hills. So I made it to Palmerston. Paid for a small room with a TV, heater and sink.  Charged up my phone and made a significant dent in my food store in order to reduce weight. I have been carrying some of it for a long time. We ate out quite a bit on the Trail so it was time to consume a lot of it.
Tomorrow's forecast is rain so it may be a short day.  After that it gets better.  It will, be nice to complete the South Island section-maybe in a week. Perhaps a little more. Warmer nights would be good.

26th Feb Oamaru

26th Feb
Today I left Palmerston at about 9.30.  It was a grey old Sunday with rain threatening pretty much the whole day. The first objective was to get to Oamaru and see what condition my condition was in.  The country  was  rolling hills  which lots of slow progress going up short passages coming down. I reso lved to eat lots of the food I'd been lugging that Tom wasn't so keen on.   Iwas riding through Herbert which is a few kms south of Oamaru when noticed a grand old church.  So I crossed the road to take a look .The servicewas just finishing  but a couple of the ladies allowed me to admire the inside as well as the outside. I even for sign the visitor's book.

Once I finally crawled up the last hill to Oamaru I didn't have the energy to go on.   The cabin prices were exhorbitant so it was back to the tent.  I finally found some grass the tent pegs would into without the use of dynamite.
A German cyclist rode in at about 6 and set up a tent very like mine.  We got talking.  His English was better than my German so we're able to communicate quite well.  He told me I was the first Kiwi cyclist he'd seen.

Timaru

Graham has made it to Timaru after a long day with a headwind. He is hoping to get to Ashburton tomorrow night.

Sunday 26 February 2012

Oamaru


Another hilly day with grey clouds in the morning but fine weather this afternoon. Graham is now in Oamaru.

Saturday 25 February 2012

Palmerston

Hi everyone.. Kay here. Graham has spent the last few nights in Dunedin havin g a lovely time catching up with old friends Greg and Hilda , and Kelvin and Clemency.  Today he made it through to Palmerston.. not as far as he wanted to go but he says that  after  3 big steep hills and cold showery weather he wanted to stay in a cabin.

Tuesday 21 February 2012

Rail trail Wedderburm

21 Feb
Today Tom and I left Omakau in drizzle, low cloud and fortunately very little wind. Because we were prepared for it, we made sure our clothes at least were dry double wrapped in plastic bags. We made our selves as waterproof as possible.  Nothing could stop the sandy grit from getting into everything - brakes, chain, sox, shoes. Braking was an excruciating experience,  We maintained quite a good speed despite the conditions and the uphill gradient. Tom negotiated a couple of busdriver cottages for $20 each so we have avoided yet another night in a tent for very little extra cost.  I wouldn't mind the tent if it wasn't for the cold, We solved the mystery of the deflating mattress. Ann's mattress still goes down a bit but theres only one night for him to go.  I am going to miss his company - it has been good.

Rail trail Omakau

20th rail trail day 1
We both had a dreadful night with very cold temperatures, mattresses that lost their and very damp conditions.  I hardly slept at all.
We had spent quite alot of time sorting our stuff into piles. For me I was sending some stuff back to Hamilton because it turned out I didn't so much after all.  Some stuffwas going to Middlemarch to reduce weight on the gravel trail. And it did make a difference today having slightly fewer things onboard. I had picked up Tom's bike the afternoon before because his bus came in after the shop was closed. That worked out well. We started a bit later than I had hoped. We had an easy run to  Alex where we picked up extra pegs for Tom's bivvy bag and of course the caffeine fix.  We made good time to Chatto Creek where Tom shouted lunch.Grateful thanks.  There was a long stretch of uphill climb with a strong wind and a hot sun.  When we got Omakau I opted for the comparative luxury of a 2 bed cabin so we could sort out our problems of leaky mattresses. Tomorrow night its tents again at Wedderburn beside the red shed.

Clyde

19th Sunday
A blob day was ordered and duly delivered. In yesterday's I didn't mention Dave and Brian who quite often go biking together when Brian's wife lets him.  Both come from Christchurch and were quite emotional talking about it. They plan to do it in 2 weeks with lots of little side trips. They both have an interesting perspective on life that involves helping people and not necessarily making a lot of money.  And they love biking.

Queenstowm

18th
Queenstown leaves me cold. Don't get me wrong. It is stunningly beautiful. But it seems to be a lot about money. The houses, the clothes,  the prices, and just the sheer speed of the place.I didnot feel safe riding around.  The 1way street system takes a bit of getting used to.

In our little corner of campingground was a little micro cosm of the world There was Steve sleeping out of the back of a car.A cyclist from a small town, looking for a part-time job to help him through his self improvement course. Will it help him get a career? Hope so

There was Linda - a librarian from Melbourne cruising around in hired station wagon.She knows how to party hard. She has a number of tats-I only saw 1 but I'll take her word for the rest.

Then there was Brigit and Marta. Both from Frankfurt. Both just finished high school and touring first NZ and then Thailand before starting university. One wants to be a lawyer and the other wants to  do media arts.  They flew to New Zealand and bought a car to travel around in sleep in.They had a book of 50 must do things in NZ and planned their tour around that. It was fun sharing impressions of NZ Australia and Europe with these young people.

The next day I left early hoping to find the odd garage sale.  That part of the didn't seem to do garage sales for some reason.Good thing because I can't carry anything anyway. A few steep climbs out of the city and then it was downhill pretty much all the way to Cromwell.  I had not been aware how much climbing I had done from Bluff to Kingston until did the descent to Cromwell and then Clyde. I could (and probably should) have stayed in Cromwell but I wanted a 'blob' day before Tom arrived to do the Rail Trail.  The run down to Clyde should have been a doddle but a head wind had sprung up and though it wasn't strong I was already tired.  Rain was threatening putting added pressure.

Kingston

16 th
it was cold and misty when I left Lumsden.  The night was quite cold and I was pleased I had booked the little cabin.I didn't sleep too but at least I was warm. I briefly toyed with the idea of going on to Queenstown.In theory it would have been possible if the weather had been kind, the roads straight and flat, with a good cloud cover with cool temperatures. It didn't take me long to decide Kingston should be the goal for the day. The cold mist stuck around so I stopped for a coffee at Five Rivers.

Got to Kingston absolutely exhausted. Setup my tent, had a shower, cooked dinner and went to bed.  Had a long talk to a Danish man who commiserated with me about the hills in NZ.

Thursday 16 February 2012

Lumsden

Good keen men
15 feb  I left Invercargill heading first for Winton then Dipton and if nothing suitable accomodation wise turned up Lumsden at 80kms was the final choice.  I was a little worried as a fellow cyclists didn't think there was a campsite at Lumsden.  I got even more concerned when signs pointing to a site were faded.  I asked a local and was relieved that it was just out of towb.  Honesty box for campsites as in Bluff.but I wanted a cabin so I had to ring the numbe.  Turns she is from PNG and her husband is currently in Morrocco where he often goes to work. Kind of unexpected in a tiny little conservative town like Lumsden.   It is a lovely little campground and I thought it was going to be great when a couple of good keen fisher blokes decided to take the other cabin which is inches from my front door. Clearly a test of my humility.  And I failed , again.

14 th Feb Bluff and back to Invercargill

Bluff  The bow of the canoe

Today was shakedown day. I got really cold at night as the strong southerly kept the temperature very cool. It confirmed the decision to start south and go north was the right one (weather-wise anyway). I had breakfast (left over chips) and then muesli.  I packed up all my things and headed for the bay where the huge chain links go into the bay. An effective and inspiring piece of sculpture. I missed seeing the Maritime Museum at Bluff but it would have meant waiting around for 30 minutes or more till it opened and I was still cold.  One day we'll be back and I can see it then.  I rode past some trampers (German I think) - a couple walking the length of the South Island.  Quite humbling. You think YOUR pilgrimage is quite challenging and then you meet others whose challenge seems far geater. Got back to Invercargill at midday and went shopping after booking into the camping ground. Some things had to wait. Some things I plain forgot. There were lots of cyclists - mostly from Europe including a couple with two very young children under 5 from Switzerland. Brave - some would say unwise - on NZ roads.  But they got there safely.

13 Feb Invercargill

Today began in the early morning.  I got up (because I couldn't sleep) at about 3 am, checked email and facebook (as you do), and went back to sleep.  At 6.30 I woke and checked my watch.    We needed to be at the airport by 6.45 which gave us 10 mins to make it happen.  Fortunately the bike and all the extras were pretty much in place.

There is a dilema - do you plan for every eventuality (e.g. broken spokes) or go light and hope it all works ok. I have 2 spare spokes and 2 spare chain links if the chain breaks.  I think I even know how to use them.  The tools are quite heavy, so its a toss up. I also have lots of plastic ties which are great and weigh almost nothing.

We made it to the airport and the check-in was very painless.  I am on my way.

Friday 10 February 2012

Why?

Another question I am asked is "Why are you going uphill ?" - thats what it looks like on a globe as we traditionally know it. There are a number of practical reasons why I'm going in this direction.  Food, transport, prevailing wind direction (I hope).  But there also a spiritual reason.

 In 2001 Kay flew to Europe to walk the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage across northern Spain - 800km, 5 weeks.  In 2003 the two of us essentially walked the same route together.   The remains of St James - one of the Disciples of  Jesus - is reputed to be interred in a silver casket buried beneath the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in Galicia.  For a thousand years pilgrims have been making similar journeys to Santiago for a whole variety of reasons.  For a better feel for it, watch the movie "The Way" with Martin Sheen.

There are few places in New Zealand  that could command such an interest.  Spirit's Rock is the sacred ground at Cape Reinga where Maori believe the human spirit touches before heading off to Hawaiiki, once a person has died.

Although we were there, walking across Spain together, a pilgrimage is essentially a solo effort. The people you are with are part of your pilgrimage through life, but in the end you are born, you live and you die alone. 
So my trip is partly holiday, fun, exercise, meeting new people, sightseeing, a break from the rigours of the classroom and administration. It is also being at that point of departure for Maori at Cape Reinga. It is a time of self-reflection and perhaps a re-discovery of who I am and why I am here.

So it is uphill.  Some of it will be hard.  When I have been back for a while I will be able to answer the next question - "Was it worth it ?".  But thats another story.

Thursday 9 February 2012

Just a few days...

Had a question from many of my colleagues - "Are you ready?"

A hard one to answer as there so many possible ways to look at it.

Am I packed ?    I have a spreadsheet (as many Technologists do) of all that needs to go in and where it should go.  There are pile of items sitting on my office floor, waiting to be bagged and put in the appropriate pannier.  Most of them have been weighed to keep the the balance even.   My only regret is that can't think of a practical way to take a guitar along.  recorder - yes.   guitar no.


Am I physically ready ?    I have done some training, possibly not as much as I should have.  I have done several long distance trips in the last month - and survived.  The trip has been set up with a flexible timeline.  So I will make it manageable.   Kay keeps telling me - "its not a race, or an endurance event".  And, as usual, she is right.

Have I booked all the things that need to be booked?  I have booked my flight to Invercargill. I have booked my  flight back from Kaitaia and the train trip from the end of the Otago Rail Trail back to Dunedin.  The only other booking I need to make is how to get back from Cape Reinga to Kaitaia..   With bike.

Thursday 26 January 2012

The countdown continues

Today I loaded up the bike with all the gear (except food) and rode to work.  Being only 7 kms each way, it is not really a true test, but the gravel track going up beside Cobham Drive is quite steep and I was pleased with how I coped.

Earlier this week I booked my flight back from Kaitaia - a bit more expensive than the bus but 3 hours versus 9 is worth it I think.
Still a lot to do but the training ride to Athenree and back (220 kms in 2 days) was a challenge completed.  I could even walk a little bit after it !!!

Sunday 8 January 2012

Pio Pio

13 Mar     Piopio

It was a chilly morning in Mokau and with a steep range of hills it was quite a long time for the sun to get up and warm up the area. It was headed for a fine autumn day with little or no wind.  I stocked up on some food at the local garage at Awakino.  I wasn't sure what was actually at Piopio although remember it as being quite a small village.

Once I left Awakino I was climbing up the Awakino Valley, it began gently enough with a reasonably wide road and a good shoulder.  There were a couple of serious slips along the way that are quite scary on a bike. Partly its a fear of rock falls, but also of dodging the rubble on road.  And when that rubble might go flying with cars and trucks going past at speed, the danger is real.  The narrowness of the road with the trucks that go flying past given that its a state highway that connects Taranaki with the King Country and the Waikato. I was a lone cyclist andI can see why fellow cyclists would avoid the route.  There are a couple steep hills that I walked up. And I was pleased when the sign for Piopio came into view.  I asked at the  local dairy and they pointed me to the free camping area and gave me a key to the toilet block.

I pitched my tent, bought some further supplies and settled down for the night.